Yannick Alléno's Terroir Parisien

Yannick Alléno's new bistrot Terroir Parisien is pretty cutting-edge for the Paris scene. Its menu is solely sourced from the Ile-de-France region and its prices (contrary to Alléno's other address, Hotel Meurice) remain reasonable- despite the fact that diners could likely be cajoled into paying higher prices for Alléno's reputation and ingredients.

When I went to lunch at Terroir Parisien on a recent Wednesday afternoon, I expected the restaurant's vibe and décor to match the exceptional aims and exuberant reviews surrounding this new addition to Paris' dining scene. I figured the revolutionary (to Paris) mission of locavore cuisine would be accompanied by an equally radical interior design.

Happily, the bistrot's style is about as unembellished as a dining establishment could be. Function and utility are key to the backdrop of Terroir Parisien, which provides a stage for the real stars: fresh and seasonal ingredients raised in the Ile-de-France.

The walls are adorned with chalkboards and shelves, the chalkboards announce where each ingredient comes from and the shelves stock examples of the locally grown vegetables. Large windows allow for ample light- a scarce commodity in this dreary Paris Springtime- to enter into the dining space and further illuminate the natural beauty of the whole foods.

A reassuring mix of classical and modern- this restaurant is comfortable in its location cuddling up to the historic Maison de la Mutualité and would be equally at ease nesstled somewhere along the Northern California coastline.

My second worry about dining chez Alléno was that, as a vegetarien, I would be sipping on soupe à l'oignon for lunch, while lamenting an otherwise meat-based menu.

Once again I was happily surprised when I saw that the menu not only offered veggie options, but is also organised so that you can go wild with side dishes and "plats de résistance" à la carte to get your veggie fix and pair these sides with a large selection of main dishes.

I imagine that the selection for vegetarians will only get better- and more varied- as the Summer approaches and we see tomatoes and eggplant arriving on our plates.

The locavore movement is safe in Alléno's hands and Terroir Parisien is the proof. The chef adheres to the Ile-de-France rule (the wine being the only exception) with laudable dedication all while making eating local fun. Really fun.

As someone who scours markets for locally-grown produce and cherishes every treasure that I find along the hunt, it was a thrill to have the opportunity to order local gems- champignons de Paris, asperge d'Argenteuil,  épinards Montfermeil- all off of one menu.

For lunch, I settled on the champignons de Paris stuffed with escargot, accompanied by a side of spinach that was grown a mere 17 km South of Paris.

Everything was delicious- but that was no surprise. I'm a convert to the locavore lifestyle and I think that anyone who has a meal at Terroir Parisien will quickly convert, as well.

One more piece of advice- stay for dessert! My lunch date ordered the house specialty "Niflette Feuilleté" and it was to die for. Served with an artilery of cutlery, the pastry bursted with across-the-board flavors from sweet to citrus- a pleasure to tackle at the end of a thouroughly enjoyable meal. (Thanks Christy for taking a picture of the desert- and for sharing both with me!)

Terroir Parisien 
20 rue Saint Victor, 75005
m° Maubert-Mutualité (line 10)
Open everyday 12h-15h & 19h-23h

Marché du Mois: Marché sur l'Eau

After successfully launching their innovative projet de marché in the Summer of 2011, the association Marché sur l'Eau is back! The maiden voyage of 2012 took place on May 1st and this year the market is more ambitious, promising a year-round presence in front of the Rotonde at Stalingrad.

I love the idea behind this marché- which brings local produce from the Seine and Marne region to shoppers in Pantin and Paris. Boats are charged with seasonal produce grown by independent producers and then make their way towards the city using the canal de l'Ourq.

The boat is able to do the work equivalent to 10 trucks, making it an ecological and functional alternative to truck delivieries.

The transport is what happens behind the scenes- but what the consommer sees once the stage is set is just as exciting and enough to get you engaged. The produce is gorgeous and very resonably priced. For €7,20 I picked up 2 heads of lettuce, a huge bunch of bright orange carrots, and a hearty helping of blettes.

You can visit the market and choose your produce on Saturdays and Tuesdays, or you can sign up for a panier which will be prepared and waiting for you on market days. Panier prices range from 9-15 euro in Winter and 10-17 euro in Summer. Your account can easily be managed through Marché sur l'Eau's website and you can modify your pick-up days or reschedule in case you're out of town or otherwise unable to pick up your veggies that week.

A typical winter panier includes potatoes, green onions, spinach, and parsley. Things promise to brighten up in the warmer months, when zucchini, bellpeppers, heirloom tomatoes, and eggplant get into the mix!

The Marché us staffed by members of the association that are eager to talk about the project- so if you have any questions I highly recommend checking out the Marché sur l'Eau and learning more about what they're about!

Marché sur L'Eau

Pantin: 
Grands-Moulins (m° Hoche - line 5)
Tuesday: 11h30-14h

& Quai de L'Aisne (m° Eglise de Pantin- line 5)
Saturday: 12h-14h30

Paris:
La Rotonde, pl. de la Bataille Stalingrad
(m° Jaures- lines 2 & 5, m° Stalingrad- lines 2, 5, & 7)
Tuesday: 18h-20h30 & Saturday: 11h30-14h

Marché du Mois: Marché Popincourt

After visiting L'échappée Spa (which stocks the amazing Absolution brand of organic, made-in-Paris skin car products) early one Friday morning I was happy to stumble upon the bustling Marché Popincourt.

The market takes up a series of blocks along Boulevard Richard Lenoir in the 11th arrondisement and, in keeping with the general atmosphere of this animated neighborhood, proved to be livliest marché I've visited in quite some time.

The friendly atmoshpere of the market on this particularly sunny morning pulled me in and inspired me to stroll the busy aisles several times. As is my habit, I was in search of local and organic vendors. A scarcity of such stands in part explains the time I spent scouring the market. I dedicated a good deal of time ooking closely at every vendor's wares,  trying to find products that were grown in France or of the organic ilk.

Having said that, I also extended my stay because of the warm and welcoming vibe of the market, which brought back to mind my earliest feelings of affection for shopping at Paris' open-air markets, with their intoxicated cries of vendors, mixed with the banter and small talk which is all but extinct at industrial food outlets.

There was not a stand that I stopped by where I didn't overhear shoppers and catching up or chatting with vendors while waiting in line and making purchases.

Another thing I appreciated about Marché Popincourt was the wide selection of flowers and other plants, whose presence coincided with the onset of my Springtime planting fever. I (admittedly prematurely) picked up a basil plant that I eagerly added to my my herb garden, despite the looming threat of cold weather forecasted for Paris.

I stopped myself at the basil purchase, but promised that I'd be back to pick up a few floral additions to plant in my plot at the Jardins du Ruisseau.

There is one organic veggie stand at Marché Popincourt, along with a scattered selection of French-origin goods such as honey and other conserved products as well as the seasonal vegetables we are so familiar with by now including beets, carrots, and an increasing selection of radishes and other undergroung légumes.

If you're headed to the market early, skip your morning dose of café and head straight to the whole bean coffee seller as soon as you arrive at the market. The scent alone of the rows of bags of coffee beans will wake you up, and a to-go cup of the freshly ground coffee will give you the kick you need to hit the market and get to know its jovial vendors!


Marché Popincourt

Bd. Richard Lenoir
(between rue Oberkampf & Jean Pierre Timbaud)
Paris 75011
m° Oberkampf (lines 5 & 9)

Hours:
Tuesday & Friday
7h-14h30