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lundi 7 mai 2012

Marché du Mois: Marché sur l'Eau

After successfully launching their innovative projet de marché in the Summer of 2011, the association Marché sur l'Eau is back! The maiden voyage of 2012 took place on May 1st and this year the market is more ambitious, promising a year-round presence in front of the Rotonde at Stalingrad.

I love the idea behind this marché- which brings local produce from the Seine and Marne region to shoppers in Pantin and Paris. Boats are charged with seasonal produce grown by independent producers and then make their way towards the city using the canal de l'Ourq.

The boat is able to do the work equivalent to 10 trucks, making it an ecological and functional alternative to truck delivieries.

The transport is what happens behind the scenes- but what the consommer sees once the stage is set is just as exciting and enough to get you engaged. The produce is gorgeous and very resonably priced. For €7,20 I picked up 2 heads of lettuce, a huge bunch of bright orange carrots, and a hearty helping of blettes.

You can visit the market and choose your produce on Saturdays and Tuesdays, or you can sign up for a panier which will be prepared and waiting for you on market days. Panier prices range from 9-15 euro in Winter and 10-17 euro in Summer. Your account can easily be managed through Marché sur l'Eau's website and you can modify your pick-up days or reschedule in case you're out of town or otherwise unable to pick up your veggies that week.

A typical winter panier includes potatoes, green onions, spinach, and parsley. Things promise to brighten up in the warmer months, when zucchini, bellpeppers, heirloom tomatoes, and eggplant get into the mix!

The Marché us staffed by members of the association that are eager to talk about the project- so if you have any questions I highly recommend checking out the Marché sur l'Eau and learning more about what they're about!

Marché sur L'Eau

Pantin: 
Grands-Moulins (m° Hoche - line 5)
Tuesday: 11h30-14h

& Quai de L'Aisne (m° Eglise de Pantin- line 5)
Saturday: 12h-14h30

Paris:
La Rotonde, pl. de la Bataille Stalingrad
(m° Jaures- lines 2 & 5, m° Stalingrad- lines 2, 5, & 7)
Tuesday: 18h-20h30 & Saturday: 11h30-14h


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lundi 31 octobre 2011

Marché du Mois: Marché Jean Jaurès


I'm slowly cultivating a list of my Top 10 local producers present at the many marchés of Paris and, as I work through my list of marchés by arrondissement , I find that it is rather difficult to find even one local grower at these not-so-farmer's markets.

A case in point is the Marché Jean Jaurès where, on my visit in the early afternoon last Thursday, I noticed that none of the vendors were attached to a particular farm or region in France.

Granted, I should get to the market earlier (add this to the list of this blogger's New Year's Resolutions) when the market is probably more abuzz, but I find it is often the case that the stands are filled with fruits and legumes from all over and nowhere in particular, with the vendors having no specific link to the land their goods came from.

Having said that, there was one cheerful vendor at Marché Jean Jaurès who seemed to be making the effort to stock local and artisinal products, such as confiture faite maison, various nuts from different regions in France, and beautiful French tomatoes that reminded me of Céline's lovely article about her favorite tomato varieties of Southwestern France.


Marché Jean Jaurès is small and unimpressive when it comes to it's selection of fish and meat, but one should hesitate judging a market by it's coverage, because the treasures of this marché can be found in the simple pleasures of the season's last local tomatoes and the abundance of Fall's nuts and squash.

While my quest for local producers continues, the Marché Jean Jaurès is a fine place to stop by for residents of the 19th arrondissement looking for a few local gems.

Marché Jean Jaurès
185 ave Jean Jaurès
m° Porte de Pantin (line 5)
Hours:
Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday
7h-14h30

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mercredi 24 novembre 2010

Day 89: Organic Bakeries in Paris


Over my 5 years in Paris I've had some amazing Parisian Thanksgivings in the past, with both fellow ex-pats and natives alike. However, this year I don't feel like scrambling to find substitutes or ersatz ingredients in order to pull together a traditional meal. While new spins on classic holiday traditions are always a welcome opportunity for culinary creativity, I've decided that this year, if I can't be with the ones I love in the U.S., I'll love what I've got and in Paris, we've got a lot of bakeries.

I'm surprised that it has taken me so long to write about organic bakeries in Paris, but that's probably because I've never thought of myself as a huge painophile until I started writing a short story a few days ago and realized that my fictional American family was sitting down to dinner with a fresh baguette, I couldn't write it out and I have to admit that, after my lengthy séjour in this city, I don't think I can make it to my apartment at the end of the day without a trip to the bakery first.

Bread is an integral part of daily life in France, and there are a lot of amazing bakeries that are producing exceptional options. Recently, I visited a slew of bakeries for a friend in Nashville, TN who has a bakery called Dozen and is doing research for starting her own place in the future.

She was inspired by the bakeries she saw during her stay in France and I understand why- there are quite a lot to choose from and it is a pleasure to do a tasting tour of the city, discovering new neighborhoods and things to nibble on.

I decided, therefore, that I would do a tour of some of the city's organic boulangeries and build up a list of bonnes adresses for the blog.

My first stop was La Boulangerie par Veronique Mauclerc (83 rue de Crimée, 75019) this incredibly cranky women should probably be excused for her snarky sales approach, as she wakes in the early hours of the morning to begin the 15 hour process necessary for making her bread, which is baked in one of four remaining wood-fired ovens in Paris.

Mauclerc uses organic flour and employs a sourdough starter to initiate two risings of her bread. The final product is beautiful. I was on my way to a trico-thé afternoon of knitting and tea and picked up a brioche aux pistaches which was well appreciated. I can understand why Veronique is so picky over who takes home her labors of love, though I think a nap might improve her disposition.

Today I stopped by Au Pain Naturel (6 bd. de Denain, 75010) which appears to be a part of the Moisan collective of organic bakeries. Located in the less-than-charming Gare du Nord neighborood, this bakery is inviting with its loveley façade and wide array of breads and pastries.

The salespeople there kept it cool as I took pictures and a local crazy yelled at them for their unwillingness to barter with him over the price of a baguette.

I gladly payed my 1.90€ for an organic pain viennoise spotted with morcels of sweet orange peel. It made a nice side to the organic fallsa stuffed omelets that I enjoyed with a lady friend later that afternoon.



I'm excited to work on my to-do list of organic bakeries in Paris, and would love any suggestions or reviews you may have.

Until then, I wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving and a Bon Beaujolais Nouveau- but most of all I wish you the best of what is local and a very Bon Appetit!

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