<data:blog.pageTitle/>

jeudi 21 juin 2012

Artisanal America: Bags That Were Born in the USA

As a thunderstorm rumbles outside, announcing the arrival of another poor excuse for a Parisian Summer, I am compelled to pack a suitcase and take off for my homeland- where seasons seemed to synch up with my expectations in such a satisfactory way.

You can't change the weather, but you can always attempt to escape it- and my rose-colored vision of Summers in the US makes the motherland seem like a perfect asylum from this crumby continental weather. Which is why I'm counting down the days until I get back on my native land this August.

I know I won't be able to bring back any sunshine in my bags once the holiday is over, but I will be making some space for happy souvenirs and maybe even some extra carry-ons to contain them.

The Made-in-America bag scene seems to be booming Stateside at the moment, with those privy to the new fad sporting handmade sacs from every corner of the country.

I first noticed the trend while reporting on the Keep Portland Weird festival when Portland bands and fans convened at the Gaîté Lyrique in April.

At the concerts and various events, I noticed proud Portlanders rocking Chester Wallace bags, which are made in Portland by Portlanders. The waterproof bags are made out of waxed cotton and a sturdy adjustable strap.

Chester Wallace bags are touted as being the perfect parcel for carrying six packs across town while biking to a house party, making the City of Roses' obsession with the brand pretty logical.

Chester Wallace bags come in various colors and start at about 150 USD. You can buy them online or at selected stores in New York and Portland.

If you're looking for something a little classier than a canvas beer-toting bag, check out Brooklyn-based leather workers Rabbitneck + Dotty. Graphic design and fashion fuse to create their line of original handbags whose designs include repurposed drawer pulls, lighting fixtures, and other unexpected bits of hardware.

Keeping it classy, the Rabbitneck & Dotty design team coat all hardware in 16k gold which accents the European-bought leather used to make their line of bags, belts, and wallets. Prices vary and orders can be placed online via their website or at their store in Brooklyn.

For the international traveler whose trek requires a bag of both stellar form and function, Langly Camera Bags are the perfect fit. Evan Lane, the bag's creator, sites a desire to make something that is "functional but also fashionable" as the inspiration behind this craftily conceived bag.

Having a camera doesn't have to make you look/feel like a tourist and this pitfall of documenting your travel will be entirely avoided if you've got a Langly bag on your back. The California-made backpack has got you covered- with ample space for your camera, lenses, and even a special slot for your laptop.

Head to the brand's Kickstarter page and pledge to support the project. A pledge of 160 USD will get you you're very own Langly bag and pledges of various amounts will get you all kinds of other Langly-related goodies.

So whether you are in the US, or just wish you were, there are tons of ways to support the local, burgeoning bag-makers movement and score an awesome accessory to go with your Summer memories!

Libellés : artisanal, made in america, travel

mardi 22 mai 2012

Bio in Great Britain

As far as I'm concerned, the best way to orient oneself with an unfamiliar city is by immediately localising two things: open-air markets and independent record stores.

Both will usually lead you to pretty cool quartiers and, if you're lucky, you might find some great souvenirs while visiting.

So, instead of googling good bars or highly-reviewed restaurants when I plan a trip to a new city, I diligently look for local markets and am sure to consult The Vinyl District before hitting the road.

Cardiff (home of the "oldets record shop in the world") holds a lovely Farmers' Market each Sunday. A stone throw away from Wales' famous Millenium Stadium , the market welcomes local farmers, bakers, butchers, soapmakers, and other artisans.

Seasonal vegetables such as broccoli rabe, cabbages, and carrots are on sale along with local specialities such as Welsh salted butter and scones.

My market guide and good friend Nick introduced me to Welsh Cakes. The small cakes were hot off the gridle and melt-in-your-mouth good, the raisin filled cakes are an ideal addition to any tea time ritual.

Vegetarians are welcome at the Cardiff market, with take-away menus that include polenta and bean burgers, and omnivores of all persuasions are invited to pull up a bench at a picnic table to enjoy their purchases sur place.

With a large selection of organic items, as well as products that are representative of the region, Cardiff's Farmers' Market is a worthy of inclusion in your Welsh itinerary.

When I think of London markets images of Borough Market immediately spring to mind. On my last trip to the city I discovered a formidable and complementary market at the Southbank Centre, where the Real Food Market is held every weekend.

This market expands on the esprit (and hours) of Borough Market while adhering to the guidelines of "bringing you great tasting, sustainably and ethically produced food".

Here free-range chickens bear Gordon Ramsay's seal of approval and everything from organic curries to whoopie pies are on offer. Veggie, cheese, and meat vendors along with hot food stands are set up from mid-day to dinner time on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday- making the perfect weekend trinity complete: Borough Market brunch, a stroll through Tate Modern, and a goûté of potted bread, cabbage and ricotta strudels, or organic cheesecake.

For dinner, you could head to Vantra in the all-things-alternative embracing Soho neighborhood of London. A change from Fish & Chips, this organic food bar functions as a self-serve cantine for the ethical food set.

Vantra caters to different diets (vegan, raw, gluten-free, etc.) and does so reasonably well. As Parisien vegan Aurelia D'Andrea astutely pointed out to me over dinner one night, vegetarian restaurants aren't necessarily the best finds- even for dinners with vegetarian or other special diets. Vantra may be an example of this phenomenon, as there are surely better restaurants in the city where one could order a veggie meal. Iùm not entirely sure that Vantra caters to vegetarians, but moreso to the veggie-curious who want to try organic out for a night.

My (mislabeled) soup was not what I expected and disappointingly bland (much like the house white wine), but the veggie curries were wholesome and refreshingly spicy. The spread is ample and for 14.90 GBP, it's all-you-can-eat. I piled my one-visit-only plate (11.90 GBP) high with salads, stews, and slaws and had enough to eat, but for those having a one night stand with a 100 % veggie dinner, return trips may be in order.

Vantra's décor and the general ambience is warm and relaxed. The meal is a good deal for the price (and neighborhood). If you are spending an extended period of time in London and are looking to pass on the pub food for a night, I recommend you head to this reso for at least one trip to the buffet bar.

Cardiff Farmers' Market

Fitzhamon Embankment
Cardiff
Open Sunday: 10h-14h

The Real Food Market
Southbank Centre
London
Open:
Friday 12h-20h
Saturday 11h-20h
Sunday 12h-18h

Vantra
11-13 Soho Street
London
Open:
Monday-Saturday 12h-23h
Sunday 12h-20h

Libellés : cardiff, local, london, markets, organic, travel

lundi 28 novembre 2011

Eating Abroad: Bio in Boston

Given its rough seasons and unpredictable weather, one may not think of Boston as being capable of locally sourcing itself all year round. However, a visit to this fair city proves the contrary. On my last trip to the great Northeast, I found that Beantown serves up plenty of home-grown fare.

Boston’s proximity to the water allows access to amazing fish and seafood- most notably awesome meaty oysters- the best I’ve ever had. An acquired taste, Paris primed my appetite for this slimy delicacy, but Boston solidified my love of this magnificent mollusk.

Eastern Standard (528 Commonwealth Avenue), which should not be missed for its cocktails and all around exceptional meals featuringlocal ingredients, serves up standardly priced (2.50 /ea) oysters sourced from nearby Barnstable. Paired with a white wine chosen from the extensive wine list, you’ve got a great start to what promises to be an excellent dinner out.

If drinking at home is more your thing, you can stock up your personal cave à vin at the Wine Bottega (341 Hanover Street), a wine shop specializing in biodynamic and natural wines. I was excited to speak with the Frenchman manning the cash register when I visited the store, but my mood was further buoyed by the bottles stocked by the Bottega which included selections of European alcohols not often drunk this side of the pond- like artisinal Poiré from Normandy and Italian Lambrusco.

If you’re interested in finding out more and planning on being in Boston, I recommend you check out the Wine Bottega’s website, where you’ll find their schedule of events and can choose a tasting you’d like to attend. Locals can even sign up with the store to participate in their “Farm to Glass” program and receive 6 or 12 bottles of organic, biodynamic, and natural wines delivered to your door.

My trip to Boston was both for business and pleasure, with the wedding planning involved straddling the divide between these two distinctions. One order of planning business that quickly became classified as pleasurable was my tasting with the caters Season to Taste. Full-on food activists, the staff of Season to Taste takes local to the extreme- proposing ever-changing seasonal menus that are entirely sourced by local farms and fisheries.

Every product on their menu is locally grown, pasture fed or line caught, and native to the region. Our private tasting with Chef Sam was an absolute delight and brought us on a tour of the treasures of the Northwest, with seafood including fresh striped sea bass, crab cakes, and oysters.

Autumnal vegetables held their own against the proteins, with the fennel, snow peas, mushrooms, and fresh herbs making an argument for visiting the farmer’s market the next day (I spotted two great Farmer’s Markets during my visit- both on Saturdays, in Jamaica Plain and the other right on Copley Square).

Chef Sam ended the meal with chocolate truffles he had whipped up that afternoon and then sent us each home with a jar of homemade strawberry jam, a souvenir to keep until we meet again in August for the nuptial meal.

My last night in Boston was commemorated by one last opportunity to enjoy a Massachusetts-sourced meal. Ten Tables (locations in Jamaica Plain, Cambridge, and Provincetown) describe their food shopping habits as “European” meaning that they stick close to home when picking out proteins and produce. The restaurant's philosophy, however, seems quintessentially American- with a focus on being part of the community through being “good neighbors, by supporting the efforts of our local partners and by welcoming you to feel as comfortable as you are in your own home.”

Me and my sister certainly felt at home in the cosy and just-the-right-amount crowded restaurant. We started with some delicious cocktails- as one does on a last night in town- and I discovered the pleasures of White Linnet which was the base of The Gaston 76 (White Linnet, cucumber, and tarragon). I then delved into a roasted beet salad accented with greens a walnut and black pepper purée.

For our main dishes I enjoyed a Portuguese fish stew which owed its excellence to the inclusion of delicious clams thqt I couldnùt get enough of. My sister took advantage of an opportunity to eat ethical meat and ordered the Hangar Steak with bread pudding.

The high note of our meal came at the end when the cherry on top was not a cherry at all, but an unparalleled salt brittle atop a pumpkin crisp with molasses ice cream. Hats off to you, pastry chef! After stuffing my face with cupcakes all week (more wedding business/pleasure tasting), this light yet filling fall dessert hit the spot!

Ten Tables also has an enticing bar menu and the vibe on that side of the resto is just as cosy- I would highly recommend pulling up a bar stool for a wine pairing and enjoying the ambience that this neighborhood restaurant has created- it’s enough to make you want to become a local!

And so my Northeast adventure ended, with plenty of new addresses, memories, and the promise of oysters left unturned and more of the unexpectedly rich bounty of the Boston area.

Libellés : artisanal, boston, local, organic, organic booze, organic restaurants, seasonal, slow food, travel

mercredi 23 novembre 2011

Local in the Lone Star State: East Side Show Room

Austin is weird- or at least the Austin you are most likely to see on your first night in Austin is weird. Walking down the booze soaked strip of 6^th Street is, unexpectedly and kind of unfortunately, a common and baffling first visit stop for the Austin tourist.

I spent my first night in Austin wandering this rue of revelers, wondering how all these bachelors and undergrads could be so drunk before 10 pm, what bartender meant when they offered “triples for 5 dollars”, and if the two were connected.

On my stroll down the block, a bikini-clad cowboy donning a confederate flag as a cape crossed my path and my first impressions were confirmed, Austin is really weird.

Austin is also amazing. This is what I discovered on my second night, when my path led off the beaten path and eastward to the East 6th Street neighborhood. This newly cool-ified neighborhood houses a DIY Drive-In, a parking lot turned food truck court, and some dive bars that brought me back to my days in the Northwest.

My final destination was 1100 East 6^th Street, which will from now on be known as my favorite Austin address. This is where you will find East Side Show Room a cocktail bar and restaurant that emits an upscale ambience while embracing local Texan flavor.

The blackboard menu boasts daily specials along with the promise that all ingredients are 100% made in Texas, and you can't mess with that.

Upon arrival, I settled into the mood-lit bar with my book and a Tequila Ocho Margarita and looked over the dinner menu. Grilled Gulf Shrimp were a given for the starter. I can't get enough of the local seafood and am I little disappointed that I didn't get to cash in on crawfish season while in town. But the main course was a little more difficult to settle on.

While carnivores had a wide (free) range of choices on the menu- grassfed veal burger, pork loin, and goat chop, to name a few- I had narrowed the vegetarian options down to a delicious sounding acorn squash with a sweet and savory stuffing and the (maybe vegetarian?) Black Drum served with olives, fennel, and seasonal veggies.

This is how seduced I was by this place- I didn't even care what the Black Drum was- animal, mineral,vegetable whatever- I ordered it and was going to eat it no matter what.

It turns out Drum is fish (Southern friends can laugh at me at this point- but Californians, have you ever heard of this?) and it is also delicious.

Everything was delicious, actually. I'm not a food writer and I don't have the vocabulary to convey how great this food was, but here are some of my favorites flavors as I ate, while sipping on a glass of chilled Picpoul (what?! This is my favorite little white wine-you had me at hello, East Side Show Room!):

-Crispy polenta with wilted spinach crowned with GIANT (Texas, right?) shrimp that was grilled like they should be.

-A thick filet of Drum with snow peas and just enough salt from the kalamata olives and sweetness from the end-of-the-season tomatoes to make the dish perfection on a plate.

-The sweet taste of success one relishes upon having one of those meals you will never forget.

Thank you chef Sonya Cote, keep doing what you're doing and also thank you awesome bartender, who took care of this goofy traveler as she geeked out on great food and occupied and candle-lit corner with her book and the best night out she's had in a long time!

Libellés : local, organic restaurants, seasonal, slow food, Texas, travel, vegetarian

mercredi 5 janvier 2011

Day 131: Organic in Italy: Part Two

In an attempt to drag out the beneficial effects of holiday taking, the sequel of my "Organic in Italy" series will take us to the sun-bathed Southern region of Italy, more specifically Naples and Capri.

Naples was our New Year's destination, and an ideal destination it proved to be. Every year, the city dwellers (Napolitans? Napoleans seems strange...ideas?) buy ample amounts of fire works in the streets and prepare to provide the city with a personalized pyrotechnic extravaganza, as the city prepares no official New Years celebration or fireworks display.

A mixture of celebration of the new year and indignation against the government, the events of this year were particularly à propos as Naples' "waste management issue" (as its referred to in a this Wikipedia article) was particularly noticeable. The trash that piled high around the city's trashcans during our visit was a sign of the poor organization and lack of foresight on the part of the city and it's complicit partners (i.e. the mafia) with regards to this fundamental issue.

I do not have anywhere near an extensive understanding of this situation, but from talking to people about the "waste management issue" the horrific reality was hard to believe. For years, the Italian government has been shipping trash to the Naples region, without any sustainable plan for getting rid of it- the result is, as I said, horrific. Trash, including some radioactive and other toxic waste, has been buried under grounds where cows and buffalo used to produce mozzarella (the region's speciality) graze daily. The result is inedible local fare and the governement's response is no less disappointing- consisting essentially of the production of new incinerators and landfills, actions that barely even band-aid the situation.

Before we left Rome, a newspaper article reported Berlusconi's promise to have the trash cleared out of the streets before the 1st of January. That was on the 30th of December and we were doubtful of his capacity to follow through with such a promise.

Upon arriving in the city of Naples, which is a lively and enchanting city, we saw that the piles of trash that both marred and accentuated the charm of the city didn't seem to be going anywhere fast.

So, it is in this state of frustration with an inattentive government and a hope for good things to come in the future that Naples prepared to ring in the New Year. For our part, we prepared by seeing the sites and, of course, eating.

Our first culinary delight took place in Capri, where we spent the afternoon visiting a friend of our gracious host. This local Caprisian (?) gave us an insider's tour of the island, a place that would otherwise be rather offsetting with it's overabundance of weekenders wearing sunglasses despite a complete lack of risking direct sunlight in the eyes.

Our kind guide immediately dispelled any cynicism we may have approached the situation with, taking us first to Edivino (Vico Sella Orta, 10/A, Capri), a house-turned restaurant that is cosy and welcoming. Once inside, you feel like you've walked into everything a Pottery Barn store ever wanted to be. As we waited to order, a woman came out of the kitchen and grabbed a bunch of apples our of the shallow bowl that was on our table, "for a tart for tonight," she explained, reminding me that we weren't in a catalogue, but a real place, in Italy.

While waiting for our food to arrive, we took a tour of the house and its small gardens, which consisted of citrus trees and a fully functional vegetable garden with lettuce and rhubarb and celery just waiting to be plucked and eaten. Among the New Years Eve commotion and preparation, the team at Edivino prepared and served our lunch which, I am sorry to say, I don't have any pictures of, so you'll just have to take my word for how delicious looking it was.

The pasta dish was a simple mixture of a chunky tube pasta with olive oil, hints of garlic, steamed broccoli and white fish. It was absolutely amazing and the sign of good things to come.

Back in Naples after a stroll around Capri's Marina Piccola, we had a few drinks at the must-visit activist library/music & photography lovers HQ/bar Perdi Tempo and then set off for more food, this time right around the corner at the neighborhood Vegan and Organic Restaurant, Un SorRiso Integrale (Vico S. Pietra a Maiella 6, Naples).

The food at Un SorRiso Integrale was good, particularly the entrée of fried veggies in a paper cone. I had my first cheese-free meal in a while (a nice lactose break) with some good local organic white wine to wash it down.

As is often the case with vegan restaurants, the biggest pleasure may be just knowing that they exist. You could probably be more blown away by food in Naples, but I would still recommend Un SorRiso Integrale for any veggie voyager looking to order anything off the menu, instead of a macgyvered veggie option in a more traditional restaurant.

The next evening, we were invited to spend New Year's Eve at the home of a friend, celebrated photography and barkeep at Perdi Tempo. I was looking forward to seeing the infamous fireworks from their rooftop terrase while ringing in the New Year with my guy and our amici. What I didn't prepare for was the feast that our hosts had prepared for at least 30 people.

The plates consisted of Pasta, an amazing bell pepper salad (the bell peppers in Italy are the best I've ever had), lasagne, a huge plate of tiramisu, and, at midnight, the traditional plate of lentils and tripes which is meant to bring anyone who eats it money in the New Year.

Standing on the rooftop overlooking Naples and the dozens of fireworks showering the sky, I was overwhelmed by the little lights shining everywhere, reminders of a presence that couldn't be ignored, at least not that night. In the darkness all we could see were sparks and flashes, and for awhile no one saw or thought about the trash or the streets, we were all looking at the sky.

The next day, the main squares had magically been cleared of trash, but as we made our way back to the trains station, snaking through smaller side streets, we saw that Berlusconi still hadn't done anything to help those parts of the city.

Libellés : artisanal, Capri, local, Naples, travel, vegetarian

lundi 3 janvier 2011

Day 129: Organic in Italy: Part One

Happy New Year readers, I hope you enjoyed your holidays and are looking forward to great things to come in 2011!

The end of the year festivities took me on a tour of Southern Italy this year, where I enjoyed the region's incredible hospitality, culture, and cuisine. The trip took us to the countryside, the seaside, and a few cities in between. There is so much to be related after this action-packed week that I've decided to do this in two parts. Starting with my time in Rome and Viterbo and ending with our visit to Naples and Capri.

The day after Christmas, me and my guy headed to Rome, where we were greeted with a bottle of 2003 Brunello di Montalcino-Uccelliera, mozzarella di bufala, and artisinal olive oil.

Brunello is a true treasure as this wine, which is from the Southwestern part of Tuscany, is the most strictly regulated of Italian wines. It is made with 100% grapes from the Sangiovese region and then aged for 3 years in oak casks. The integrity of this wine is highly valued and rigidly enforced.

Brunello winemakers were entangled in a 2008 scandel which led investigators to follow up on claims that they were disobeying regulations by using other grape varieties in their wines. The scandel was all over the media, reflecting the seriousness with which Italians take Brunello wine regulations.

While I tasted quite a few Italian wines during our trip, it seemed clear that Brunello is a particular source of pride for Italian oenophiles, who were kind enough to introduce this truly enjoyable Italian product to a pair of foreigners.

The following day, we headed up North, stopping just short of Tuscany, in the town of Viterbo. We drove down a tattered country road as we navigated ourselves towards the pools of sulfery water that are open and free to the public. Here we witnessed a magnificent sunset and stripped down to our swimsuits, shivering in the last rays of sunshine before we jumped into the natural hot springs and watched stars take over the sky.

Bathing seems to be an ubiquitous theme in this region of Italy, with old bath houses being both preserved and used in many cities and recovered bath tubs being a recurrent element in fountains throughout Rome. While Italians seem to love bathing, I'd say this form of pleasure comes second to their favorite pastime- eating. So, after an hour or so of soaking, we braved the cold and covered up before heading over to the midieval city center of Viterbo for dinner.

While searching for a pizzeria, we stumbled upon 3DC Gradi (Via Cardinal la Fontaine 28, Viterbo, Italy) where front door was decorated with Slow Food stickers and the welcome was warm and satiating. After enjoying mineral water from the source, I was excited to savor in Slow Food whose origins are also rooted in Italy. Founded by the Italian Carlo Petrini, th Slow Food organization coordinates bi-annual conferences in Torino, Italy and advocates alternatives to fast food, as well as the preservation and continuation of artisinal food production.

Our meal began with a bountiful round of cheese and charcuterie plates and, for the first time in my 12 years of vegetarianism, I was tempted to indulge in the thin slices of ham that were ceaselessly being passed around the table. This, I learned, is how Italians eat- with each course containing a sampling of pasta, fish, meat, and veggies that are passed around with diners encouraging each other to taste bits of everything that has been ordered. I had a broccoli soup followed by smoked fish accompanied by olives and delicious local oranges finishing with a Panna Cotta with berry jam, and I tasted a little bit of everything around me, including olive oil and cinnamon sautéed potatoes and spaghetti with octopus and tomato sauce.

Here we also enjoyed my favorite Prosecco of the visit, a bottle of La Montina Franciacorta Brut, whose subtle yet surprising taste puts to shame any of its sweeter sisters and could stand up proudly to a French Champagne competitor.

Our visit to the countryside was a nice relief from the bustle of Paris, and our return to Rome allowed for a continuation of the calm we so sorely needed.

Rome is at its best a beautiful city with small streets and charming architecture that embraces warm colors and at its most intense it can be a daunting city, with monuments to it's heritage and history everywhere, one easily feels dwarfed and overwhelmed by their surroundings.

Happily, there we were brought to many lovely places to sneak into and sit down to enjoy local and organic food. One such place is the pizzeria Bir & Fud (Via benedetta 23, Trastevere neighborhood in Rome). Bir & Fud offers organic pizzas with seasonal specials and best of all it's a great place to find a huge selection of organic Italian beers. Their motto which starts off "Only living beers. Only Pizza from living starters." leads to a great evening enjoying beers you would never have expected to find in Italy.

Another organic sweet spot to hit while in Rome is Fior di Luna (Via della Lungaretta 96) which offers a selection of organic and artisinal geleto and chocolates. I must admit that my favorite gelato in Rome was found at Giolitti (Via Uffici del Vicario) where the gelato is topped off with homemade whipped cream and, I know this is what gelato is supposed to do, but it just melts in your mouth, not just literally, but figuratively. It's really, really good. However, Fior di Luna is worth a try and you can also pick up some organic and vegetarian snacks and sweets while you're there.

There's so much more to share, but I'm going to conclude Part One with a few words about the Center for Alternative Economy which is located right on the outskirts of Rome, in the Testaccio neighborhood.

The center is comprised of a boutique of handmade products from Paysannes, prisoners, and people from all over the world. Here you can buy bags and wallets, shirts and sneakers, coat hangers and coasters, that are all made by the vendors and often with organic and recycled materials.

On the opposite end of the Center lies an organic market where you can wander the endless aisles of organic pasta and pick up some organic olive oil, beers, breads, and cookies. The hub of the center seemed to be it's restaurant, which has a small menu of organic dishes and desserts that you can enjoy in their cafeteria.

The organization is a great community resource and includes a library and wide spaces for community events and organizations. I was very impressed to see such a complete and cohesive approach to forming a base for an economy that challenges our present system and includes fair trade, first source products, and locally produced food. I've never seen anything like this center before, and would love to hear of others that exist if anyone reading has any information.

Libellés : artisanal, organic, organic booze, Rome, slow food, travel, Viterbo

mardi 2 novembre 2010

Day 67: Brussels Bio

Me and my monsieur spent last weekend in Brussels and, while I'll admit to being a bit of a lazy blogger and not doing much research, we managed to stumble upon some great organic addresses that I'd like to share.

Despite it's reputation as a moules frites paradise, Brussels seems to be trying to distance itself from its fried food reputation and embrace the slow food movement. Many restaurant fronts sported slow food stickers and organic, local ingredients. This was particularly obvious in the Ste. Catherine neighborhood of Brussels where we saw a vegetable market brussel's-sprouting up as we toured the quarter scouting out a restaurant for the evening.

Ste. Catherine is also the home of Boulangerie Charli (34 rue Ste. Catherine) which is owned by a former student of legendary French chef Paul Bucose and serves up a wide variety of organic bread, which is to be appreciated in Brussels, a city that seems to conclude that nothing is the greatest thing since sliced bread, other than sliced bread itself- which is the only thing you will be served at any other eating extablishment.

Charli also makes amazing seasonal pastries. Our favorite was the Gozette aux Pommes a lovely apple turnover tucked in a flakey golden pastry that was sprinkled with sparkly raw sugar patisserie dust.

The bakery was a popular morning spot, with families, couples, and friends crowding in to grab a seat and enjoy a jus d'orange with their croissant.

In a much less touristy area across town the Brasserie Cantillon (56 rue Gheude, Anderlecht) boasts beer-making that refuses to pandor to pasteurization or non-organic forms of production. If Brussels is warming up to the idea of slow food, Cantillon takes the idea to the extreme, espousing a motto that states "Time respects nothing that is made without it".

Cantillon's beer is both exceptional and unique due to the fact that it is produced through spontaneous fermentation, which involves a cooling process in a copper tank during which time micro-organisms are allowed to work their magic and set off the fermentation process. The beer is then stored in wooden barrels for anywhere from 1-3 years.

The brewers are proud of their beer-making tradition as well as respectful of the role that nature plays in the process. The guide

that we were given while taking the self-guided tour explained the presence of several spider webs in the brewery, stating that the spiders are integral in the natural termination process, feeding on the other insects that are attracted to the fermenting beer and fresh fruit that is brought in to be mixed with their Kreik, or cherry flavored beer. Dame Nature is revered in this traditional beer haven where destroying a spider web is just as mal vu as pandoring to industrial means of beer production.

I highly recommend visiting the brewery if you happen to be in Brussels, and I have to give a shout out to Antonio for insisting that we stop in. The visit was an informative and eye-opening experience.

Tours are self-guided and cost 5 euro, which includes a tasting of two different beers at the end of your visit. The bar is also open to the public, with their most popular beers priced at 2-3 euro a glass.

Libellés : bio bakeries, Brussels, fermentation, organic, organic booze, slow food, travel

This Page

Paris Paysanne: The Blog